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As is usual at the Belmond hotels, the exceptional old-school service comes with bags of charm; many staff members have worked here for years including GM Ermes de Megni. Names are remembered and all whims catered for; a request for a safety pin was dealt...

The Ligurians do not fear slopes. They have tamed over time with dry stone walls that retain the "fasce" where the vine and the olive trees grew and produced fruit, vegetables and legumes. Then, a progressive abandonment has overlaid the seventy kilometers of trails until...

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